AN ANCIENT AND ESSENTIAL SURVIVAL STRATEGY

Shadowed by the bulk of the Labelakang Volcano, Lamalera village perches on the edge of Lembata Island facing the Savu Sea in Indonesia’s Lesser Sunda Islands. (Red dots on the maps indicate the location of the village). For many generations the villagers have pursued ocean giants from manta rays to sperm whales, rushing to sea in their fragile outriggers—these days motorized—with hand- harpoons at the ready when cries of “baleo!” (whale) or “belala!” (manta ray) ring out from hillside observers. Agriculture is not an option for the Lamalerans—they hunt not for sport or preservation of an interesting cultural practice, they hunt to survive—it is subsistence hunting.

Reaching Lamalera requires an assortment of transport: domestic air, 4WD, sea-going motor launch and land taxi. Accommodation in the village is in small very basic guesthouses. On May 1st & 2nd shamanistic ceremonies implore the gods for hunting success. Then the hunting season opens! Village outriggers may immediately go to sea to search for quarry, or await calls to action from the observers. For the next few days by charter boat/outrigger we follow the hunters. When the lamalfa (the harpooner)—a highly-respected position earned after many hunts—jumps onto the prow it’s a dramatic signal that quarry is near. Paddled into position by the outrigger crew, the lamalfa typically leaps high into the air to plant the harpoon as vertically and lethally as possible, often landing on the back of the prey. To witness the skill and daring of these hunters is a rare experience, however, there can be no assurance that during our time with the Lamalerans we will witness a successful hunt.

JOURNEY DETAILS: Trip length is 8 days starting with the Group Rendezvous on 29April at 1800 at the designated hotel in Jakarta and ending in Jakarta on 6May. Land cost is $3,275 per person double-occupancy (single-occupancy extra). International & domestic airfares are not included. Accommodations are 4-star hotels in the cities, small guesthouses on Lembata Island. Maximum group size is 6 persons, and trip costing may be adjusted depending on group size. A 20% deposit is required to reserve space, payable by cash or check.

The trip may not be suitable for everyone. A discussion with the prospective group member about the trip’s expeditionary elements, physical challenges and hazards is necessary prior to booking. Upon receipt of the deposit, Calidex will forward the complete trip information package: day-by-day itinerary, lodgings, site maps & photos, “must book” flight information, suggested equipment & clothing, health issues, visa procurement, payment schedule and other important items. Please click on contact at the top of the page to review the trip with us and get answers to any questions.