Africa Archives
THE CARTOGRAPHY

for 2005...

ETHIOPIA: ANCIENT ROCK CHURCHES, the SIMIEN MTNS TREK & the BLUE NILE
Ethiopia: Ancient Land...
JOURNEY
RENDEZVOUS
DATE
RENDEZVOUS
CITY
NO. OF
DAYS
GROUP
SIZE
TRIP
COST
ETHIOPIA '05
November 1, 2005
Addis Ababa,
Ethiopia
18
4-10
$4,175 + air

The Day-by-Day Brief

Day 1: Group members arrive Addis Ababa this evening and rendezvous at hotel for short briefing.

Day 2: City tour of Addis Ababa and environs including the Mercato, one of Africa's largest markets.

Day 3: Fly to Mekele in Tigray Province; begin to explore remote, ancient rock churches in the area by 4WD and on foot. See World HeritageSite early Christian sanctuaries rich with primitive frescoes. Rock scramble up to some pinnacle-topped churches with especially challenging access routes. Night in Mekele.

Day 4: Overland to Dugum and establish a comfortable safari-style tent camp. Hike to fascinating rock churches in the area including Debre Tsion. Night in camp.

Day 5: Hike 3 hours to Guh and the monastic 12-pillared church of Debre Mariam Korkor built high on a small plateau at 8,100'. Night in camp.

Day 6: Hike into remote canyons, through rock clefts and up cliff-side paths to rock churches perched in isolation on stone spires. Visit other churches with less formidable access to see incredible15th century rock-wall murals depicting the apostles. Night in camp.

Day 7: Overland to Axum. Tour the stelae fields, castles and tombs of Axumite kings. Night in Axum.

Day 8: Touring in and around Axum including the Tsion Mariam Church, believed by Ethiopian Orthodox Christians to house the Ark of the Covenant—the original tablets of Moses and Axum’s most famous religious artifact. Night in Axum.

Day 9: Fly to Lalibela. Explore some of the famous thirteen 12th and 13th century UNESCO World Heritage Site sub-surface churches hewn from solid rock and still in use today. Night in Lalibela.

Day 10: Hike with mule support into the Lalibela back-country to incredible monastic sanctuaries and cave churches. Pass typical villages and enjoy stunning panoramic views from the mountaintop church of Ashetun Mariam. Night in Lalibela.

Day 11: Fly to Gondar, Ethiopia’s imperial capital from the 17th century to the mid-1800s. Tour Gondar’s castles and churches, enjoy the azmari minstrels wandering through town and visit a local Felasha village. Night in Gondar.

Day 12: Overland to Debark village and the gateway to Simien Mountains National Park, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rendezvous with mules, muleteers and guide and trek to Sankaber. In a comfortable camp for the night supported by an excellent cook and staff.

Day 13: Trek to Geech. Look for endemic Gelada or Bleeding Heart Baboons, Walia Ibex and the Simien Wolf—the rarist canid in the world. Cross the Jinnbar River and pass the Jinnbar Falls; camp near Geech.

Day 14: Make a moderate one-hour ascent of nearby Imetgogo for great views over the Simien landscape and lowlands. Continue on to Chenek village at the edge of the escarpment. Camp near Chenek surrounded by great numbers of Giant Lobelias.

Day 15:Trek from Chenek to Buhait Peak through spectacular scenery. A six to seven-hour hiking day to this night's camp.

Day 16: Hike three hours to intersect the road and rendezvous with our vehicles. Return overland to Gondar for the night.

Day 17: Overland 110 miles south to Bahir Dar at the southern tip of Lake Tana—the source of the Blue Nile. Boat trip on Lake Tana to 14th century grass-roofed churches with stunning wall murals. Night in Bahir Dar.

Day 18: In the morning drive to the Blue Nile Falls. Transfer to the airport, fly to Addis Ababa and check in to a day room. Farewell dinner of Ethiopian specialties with musical accompaniment, then late-night flight departures for home via Ethiopian Airlines. Calidex "Ethiopia '05" comes to a close.

...and Ancient Peoples
Calidex Routes in Northern Ethiopia

Some Highlights

  • Unique land forms, outstanding mountainscapes and rare endemic wildlife in the Simien Mountains;

  • Spectacular early Christian rock churches perched on pinnacles and buttes, covered with primitive religious paintings on stone walls and ceilings in the interiors;

  • Lalibela's World Heritage Site subterranean rock-hewn churches—still magnets for local worship;

  • Northern Ethiopia's tribal cultures: the Afar, the Amhara and the Tigray, and a colorful village-wide traditional ceremony in a remote Tigray village;

  • Ethiopia's culinary arts—the signature dishes of injera (thick foam-like bread) and wat (the stew);
  • The markets and museums of Addis Ababa, the capital city;

  • The historic sights of Gondar and Axum, and the timeless drama of the Danakil salt caravans;

  • Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile—its colorful art-filled monastery churches and the Falls
THE GALLERY
The Ancient Rock Churches of Tigray
Rock Church of Abune Yemata—an optional rock scramble ascent
Many of the early Christian Ethiopian Orthodox rock-hewn churches we'll visit in remote parts of Tigray State such as Abune Yemata shown above are accessed via centuries-old rock paths carved into the cliffs. None of the ascents to these mesa-top churches are technical—no ropes or special climbing techniques are required. However, steep rock scrambles are often necessary, and there is considerable exposure to heights that may cause discomfort. The reward at the end of a challenging clamber is well worth the effort: church walls and ceilings are covered with primitive murals depicting Old and New Testament stories. The churches are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and utterly unique in the world.
Axum, the Danakil Salt Caravans & Lalibela

Aerial and subterranean views of Lalibela's St. George Church carved out of solid rock—a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Ancient stele in Axum, one of hundreds
From the lowest point on earth in the Danakil Depression, salt caravans slowly wind their way up onto the Ethiopian Escarpment. This 2,000-year old commerce in salt is still conducted. We plot our course to intersect a caravan, watching it ascend from the desert and meeting the camel drivers and traders as they reach the plateau.
Gondar & the Simien Mountains
Gondar's 16th century Portuguese Fort
Our Simien trek is both moderate and mule-supported (that means light daypacks only), a 3-night,4-day camping trip through a stunningly beautiful mountain landscape. Extraordinary landforms make the Simiens perhaps Africa's most unusual mountain range. Throughout the trek there will be excellent opportunities for wildlife viewing.
In Northern Ethiopia's extraordinary Simien Mountains
Male Gelada Baboon in the Simien Mountains
Lake Tana & the Blue Nile
The Blue Nile Falls
Interior of a Lake Tana monastery church

Calidex Journeys into remote areas in Africa typically involve tribal encounters that are an important part of the Calidex travel experience. In a given tribal area Calidex customarily works with its local ground operator—often one or more men native to the area—to find a village with a critical need such that a small financial contribution can make a big difference in the lives of the people. For example, a few hundred dollars might fund repairs to an old suspension bridge threatening collapse, or equip a village with improved water delivery thus saving many trips to the well.

Such modest fundings often produce wonderfully authentic, memorable cultural encounters for Calidex group members. Villagers eager to express their appreciation normally do so via colorful traditional ceremonies. Calidex has several candidate donee villages in Tigray Province, one of which will be selected and visited during the rock church exploration segment of the Journey.

For a sampling of past Calidex adventures, click below:

THE ARCHIVES

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